Water Tank Pipe Work Magneto
Part two of three: Restoring a 2 HP IHC Nonpareil
The lack of water tank and cooling pipe work
was the next challenge, and part of the problem was the size of the
tank. I had some dimensions on an old IHC leaflet, but these were
for the Famous and appeared to be some 6 inches
taller than the Nonpareil. However, I measured the tank on a
friend's 4 HP Nonpareil and it appeared the same as the equivalent
Famous. While the old pictures of the 2 HP Nonpareil appeared to
show a smaller tank, I decided to stick with the dimensions of the
Sourcing sheet metal and pipe was not a problem, but to be
correct in the restoration it would be necessary to use American
pipe threads. Fortunately, my son had to go on a business trip to
Houston and he travelled with a shopping list of pipe fittings.
I purchased a sheet of 1.5-millimeter (approximately 16-gauge)
steel to make the side of the tank and the ring for the screen,
plus a smaller piece to make the base.
My rolling bars were only suitable for smaller work so the tank
would have to be fashioned by hand. I decided to make the base of
the tank first so I would have a template to gauge progress in
rolling the sides. The diameter of the tank was 16 inches including
the rolled edges of 1/2-inch, so two circles were scribed on the
sheet metal of 16 inches and 16-1/2 inches diameter to allow for an
overlap seam with the side. After folding the seam, the diameter of
the side walls was 15-1/2 inches. I used a nibbler to cut out the
base and tidied up the edge with a file.
To form the lip on the base, I had to bend the metal over a
former with a small hammer and ground a piece of scrap steel to the
correct radius. And to prevent making marks in the metal I ground
the face of the hammer smooth, and then polished it with some
200-grit wet-and-dry sandpaper.
I clamped the former to both the sheet and workbench. Then, with
a light, continuous tapping action while moving around the base, I
gradually formed the lip. I only tapped until there was a slight
movement, and then moved the former around the metal. To avoid
marks and distortions in the metal, it was a case of tapping
lightly and often, working slowly around the base.
Once I had been around the base for the first time and created
the first impression in the metal, I clamped the base between two
formers to fold the lip - again still working by tapping often and
bending slow, moving the formers and continually working around the
base until a perfect lip had been formed.
The next step involved cutting the sheet for the tank sides. For
a 15-1/2-inch diameter, the sheet needed to be 48.71 inches long
(15-1/2" × 22 ÷ 7) plus a joining lip of 1/2-inch (let's say 49-1/2
inches). The height of the tank was 12 inches to which I added
1/4-inch for the jointing seam at the base and 3/8-inch for the
rolled edge. I decided I would not be able to form a raised profile
in the middle of the tank so no allowance was made for this.
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