Ingeco Engine Gets New Life
Diving into 2-1/2 HP Ingeco engine restoration with Webster magneto repair and a new cart — Part 2 of 3
The 2-1/2 HP Model AK Ingeco as purchased.
Photo By Peter Rooke
This is the second in a three-part series on Peter Rooke's restoration of an Ingeco engine. You can read part 1 in Ingeco Model AK Is Reborn.
Webster magneto for Ingeco Engine
The magneto for this Ingeco engine restoration sparked when tripped, but its gold paint was peeling and the mica washers on the fixed electrode looked broken and thick with oil. The springs were also past their prime, appearing original but with substantial rusting. To ensure trouble-free operation, I stripped down the magneto to check it over, knowing I could carry out the essential step of re-charging the magnets using the new magnet charger at reassembly. If you strip a Webster, note the orientation of the armature. For magnetos tripped from the right there should be a fine line scribed across the end of the armature shaft on the trip finger end.
Once I cleaned off the remains of the old paint from the bracket and the trip finger it became more obvious that someone had made repairs to them, as large blobs of weld and braze were evident. I filed these down to improve the shape and then I stress-tested the parts by holding them in a vise and twisting them to ensure the remaining weld would hold.
The wedge was badly worn on the trip finger, with the bearing face that runs over the roller being an uneven shape. To make it easier to finely adjust the magneto timing, I trued the bearing face up with a file. At some point, the trip finger from the magneto had also been welded to correct a chip or wear. This repair was so soft that it was already showing signs of wear, and it would have to be repaired or replaced.
To repair the tip of the trip finger, I cleaned up the old repair and the broken area with a grinder to get a level surface. I brazed a piece of 0.188-inch thick square drill rod to this edge before I cleaned and shaped it with a file to the right profile. Once the shape was nearly right, I wired the tip to the finger, heated it, and then quenched to harden it before I finally cleaned it with a fine grinding wheel.
There was a little play in the magneto bearings, but this was not worthy of attention as it sparked well enough.
When examining the magneto body, it was apparent the casing had been broken at some stage, as some pieces of brass rod were used to strengthen a repair.
When replacing the wire from the magneto to the igniter it was clear that the terminal block screws were not gripping; the block was broken around one thread and the threads themselves were worn. The terminal block had been made from some light cast metal and was molded into the insulation pad.
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